Since my last blog, had 2 more solid swells and a tsunami. There was a fun swell Friday Oct 26- Saturday 27. Most guys were getting there first taste of Pipe for the season. The swell was still a little bit too north for Pipe so most the waves were unmakeable, but at least the backwash deceased compared to all the other days we have had. Randall Paulson was scoring some of the best waves and a lot of the kids were giving it a go. Ha‘a Aikau has been out there locking into a few along with the Moniz clan. I think it got a little better as the swell dropped quick from early Saturday morning and Surfline ran a little clip on it which of course made it look better than it was, thats their job!
That same Saturday evening we were threatened by a tsunami. People were pretty nervous since it was projected to be a direct hit. Peter Carlisle looked pretty freaked out when he basically went on TV and told people who were stuck in their cars to dig out and seek higher ground. We only had three hours notice so I think it caught a lot of people off guard. The next day when I went to check the surf I did not know the extend of the tsunami since the news had already turned all their attention to hurricane Sandy which devastated the east coast. I did not surf that morning however because it did not look quite right and the guys who did told me it did not feel quite right either. The water came up pretty high at Turtle Bay which was not from the swell so surely it did come, it just wasn't that big.
This week, we had a 4-6 NW swell roll in on Sunday that combined with a 6-10 ft NNE swell Sunday evening. That Sunday I heard good reports from a lot of spots. With the light southerly winds, Lanis, Mokulei‘a and all down the east side were going off, but by Monday the swell had turned a little too NE to hit the main northshore spots right and the wind switched back trades.
The HIC-WQS at Sunset kicked off during that swell, but had to take a lay day on Tuesday since it was election day. Looks like they are on today in 3 foot surf which should be on the rise. The WCT guys should be shipping in soon since the event is pau in Santa Cruz. Full on circus zone already! Stay tuned!