Country came up to about 5 on the weekend of September 7th Friday into Saturday morning. When I woke up early that Friday morning for the long-awaited country swell, it was rainy and stormy and the waves were not quite kicking in yet so I thought, oh this is a bad way to start out the season, but then things kind of turned around. Even though the rain poured down most of the first day, the wind died and the conditions were pretty epic. The swell direction was NNW, but the waves were still pretty shapely and organized. V-Land had a few nice barrels. There was still way too much sand for Pipe, but everyone was happy to have something after such a long drought. A lot of guys are calling that the first swell, but for us old timers when we talk about the first swell of winter we are talking about something in the solid 8 foot range or so.
When country went flat in the middle of the week the town shores kicked in with some small SE swell as through this past weekend. Plenty swell predicted; first another boost in town, then a series of swells in the country with surf peaking on Sunday possibly near advisory levels. It is certainly that time of year and we are all excited. See you out there!