The Pipeline

Chase Em!

June 13th, 2012

June is almost always good in town, but this year, country waves have continued here through the middle of the month. We had a little 2-3 foot country swell last weekend, then 2-3 occ 4 in town throughout the week, then more waves in the country coming up late Sunday into Monday and peaked yesterday around midday. I saw one set which was pushing 6 ft at Pipe even though it was super backwashy and almost unriddable for board surfing. It is a little better now since the swell actually moved a little sand. I think Pipe was getting the most energy with the WNW direction. Town also peaked yesterday with some beautiful conditions and solid 4 foot sets in the Bowl, Both swells were really inconsistent, but the energy was cleaner and more groomed than we have seen in a while. This morning I fled to town at 4:30am with that dang Fiji excitement in my mind hoping to see some Bowl waves, but I knew I was likely to find the worst senario which was big Box jellyfish which come in with those ESE winds that were making the surf so nice in the country, but of course crumbling onshore midday in town. I sort of sat there and watched them come in. First there were just a couple, but within about 20 minutes they were popping up all over right there next to the dock in the harbour. I must have seen about 10 of them with there loooonnnggg tentacles. eeewwhh. That is so weird how they just crawl up on the sand and die, you can see them breathing there last breath. What a trip. Sure enough, guys were coming in and saying that people were getting stung, one guy in the eye I guess. Conditions were perfect again and some beautiful 2-4 footers from the middle, but nothing breaking in the Big Bowl, so I left the little jelly terrorists, then came back and surfed Northshore. I did not see any jellyfish on the beach at Pipe and still some 2 foot waves with occasional 3 feet so still fun surf around the island. Looks like more swells coming for both town and country. Here I am chasing swells around the island, then I get frustrated wondering where I should go, and then I start laughing because it must be pretty good when there are so many waves you can't decide where to surf. Good Times!

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