The surf has been beautiful the past few days. Perfect conditions blessed us for most of today and yesterday with a few hours of onshore crumble. The swell came up on New Years Day. It was a more northerly swell mixing in with a NW, but it was a lot more organized and powerful than most north swells tend to be. The surf reached 10 feet by the evening and I heard Sunset was picture perfect. The next day the waves veered a little more from the NW. It started out in the solid 6-8 foot range, but dropped all day. It was pretty small throughout most of the day today, but by the evening the swell was showing. I saw a third reefer break at Pipe this evening which was one of the first of those I have seen all year. The waves were still not very good at Pipe, and have not really been very good all year. The sand is really weird so it seems like the lefts never turn on, it is just a sporadic gem here and there, but no consistency. I got pretty excited watching it tonight though because even though it wasn't too good, it looked like this incoming swell might be west enough to wash that pesky sand out of there so we can start having some fun.
It seems like they are downgrading tomorrows swell a bit. The Quicksilver Eddie Aikau website is claiming a "slim to none" chance of running their event, but the buoy readings seem to show that it will be too big for the Backdoor shootout which is also on tap. The buoys seem a little off this year, the new buoy #1 (51101) does is not as reliable as the old one and I think it is set in a different location all together. The swells seem to register on that buoy earlier (causing the swell to show up closer to 12-16 hours rather than the former 6-12 hours) and the wave heights seem exaggerated compared with the old buoy #1. (I guess I am just noting this in case anyone else noticed)
Man, the holiday crowds have been pretty nutz. I tried to check the surf late on News Years Day and the traffic was pretty much deadlocked past V-Land so I had to turn around and go home. Then today, I went into Haleiwa around noon and as far as I could see on the high road there was nearly deadlocked traffic again. Luckily it only lasted to the Laniakea turtle tourist trap, and then it cleared. whew. I am sure tomorrow will be another crazy day, there are still a lot of people in town, I guess they are extending their holiday.
Squiddy past away a few days ago. Anyone who has been surfing the country for a fair amount of time knows Squiddy and has enjoyed his presence on the Northshore. I will never forget him from the track house days at V-Land; those were good times and he was such an important part of that special era of surfing on the Northshore. His memorial service will be at V-Land on January 28th Saturday morning at 10am, and the paddle out is at noon. RIP Squiddy.