Peace.

December 24th, 2011
By Lane

2011 Pipe Champion Kieren Perrow at Shipterns Bluff Tasmania 2001

2011 Pipe Champion Kieren Perrow at Shipterns Bluff Tasmania 2001

It has been pretty peaceful on the Northshore since the circus left town early. December 16th was a really nice day at Pipe. It started out about 4-8 ft and real clean and had some 3rd reefers that evening. By the next morning, it was pretty mixed up and all over the place again. It never really recovered after that, it has just been windy and disorganized. Not that many people are around though so at least the junk waves are uncrowded. The kids seem to be enjoying the small waves on the sandbars.

It was a pretty exciting Pipe contest. The first day was probably the best Pipe all season and the other two days would rate in this years top ten even though that is not saying much. Everyone is stoaked that John John won the Triple Crown. I think in some way we all feel like he is our kid. There is a bit of mystique behind John John however and that is his Mom. In my opinion, no one ever really gives her the credit she deserves. She has been surfing the Northshore for over 20 years. People used to get us mixed up when we surfed V-Land, because they thought it was impossible there could be two haole females surfing out there during that time. Alex aka Mom John used to charge on a short board back then. While John John was making a statement riding Pipe at such a young age, Alex was one of the first and still one of very few women to attempt it on a longboard. She has definitely made her own mark in the Pipe lineup. She paddles out when it is ten feet. Anyways, just thought I should give her some props for being a single Mom of three great kids and a Pipeline pioneer all at the same time. I think her passion for surfing has certainly played a role in her sons success and she is an inspiration for the ladies.

My husband Sean Davey has been shooting recent Pipe champion Kieren Perrow since he was just starting out. Kieren went with him on the first magazine trip to Shipterns Bluff in Tasmania, Davey's home town. At that time, none of the magazines wanted to fund a trip to Shipterns because they did not believe it was worthty of coverage and I think they have sent a team of surfers every single year since then Kieren is another really nice and respectful guy. He spends a lot of time in the Pipe line up when he is here. He is super humble and respectful to the locals, always acknowledging us and just fitting in with the mix instead of trying to be a stand out. I guess you could say, he lets his surfing do the talking.

On December 3rd, Surfrider hosted the annual John Kelly awards. Cora Sanchez who co-founded the Oahu Surfrider chapter with Peter Cole was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award. Kona Brewing Company won most environment friendly Hawai‘i company and Kyle Thiermann won the pro surfer award for his five-part video series which encourages good habits for a green environment. Surfrider also hosted a big beach cleanup with the support of San Lorenzo, Airwalk and professional surfer Anatasia Ashley. Mauli Ola foundation also held a benefit at Haleiwa during the Triple Crown. It is nice to have a break in all the action up this side, but the Haleiwa International is still on. It is hard to get a hold of the schedule this year so I am not sure when the next contests are on. I heard the Volcom Pro starts at Pipe near the end of January, which will then be followed by the Bodyboarding Pro and the Women's Pipe contest, all within about ten day increments. I guess we better surf it up now. Hope it gets good.

Merry Christmas!!

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