Archive for December, 2011

Peace.

December 24th, 2011
By Lane



2011 Pipe Champion Kieren Perrow at Shipterns Bluff Tasmania 2001

2011 Pipe Champion Kieren Perrow at Shipterns Bluff Tasmania 2001

It has been pretty peaceful on the Northshore since the circus left town early. December 16th was a really nice day at Pipe. It started out about 4-8 ft and real clean and had some 3rd reefers that evening. By the next morning, it was pretty mixed up and all over the place again. It never really recovered after that, it has just been windy and disorganized. Not that many people are around though so at least the junk waves are uncrowded. The kids seem to be enjoying the small waves on the sandbars.

It was a pretty exciting Pipe contest. The first day was probably the best Pipe all season and the other two days would rate in this years top ten even though that is not saying much. Everyone is stoaked that John John won the Triple Crown. I think in some way we all feel like he is our kid. There is a bit of mystique behind John John however and that is his Mom. In my opinion, no one ever really gives her the credit she deserves. She has been surfing the Northshore for over 20 years. People used to get us mixed up when we surfed V-Land, because they thought it was impossible there could be two haole females surfing out there during that time. Alex aka Mom John used to charge on a short board back then. While John John was making a statement riding Pipe at such a young age, Alex was one of the first and still one of very few women to attempt it on a longboard. She has definitely made her own mark in the Pipe lineup. She paddles out when it is ten feet. Anyways, just thought I should give her some props for being a single Mom of three great kids and a Pipeline pioneer all at the same time. I think her passion for surfing has certainly played a role in her sons success and she is an inspiration for the ladies.

My husband Sean Davey has been shooting recent Pipe champion Kieren Perrow since he was just starting out. Kieren went with him on the first magazine trip to Shipterns Bluff in Tasmania, Davey's home town. At that time, none of the magazines wanted to fund a trip to Shipterns because they did not believe it was worthty of coverage and I think they have sent a team of surfers every single year since then Kieren is another really nice and respectful guy. He spends a lot of time in the Pipe line up when he is here. He is super humble and respectful to the locals, always acknowledging us and just fitting in with the mix instead of trying to be a stand out. I guess you could say, he lets his surfing do the talking.

On December 3rd, Surfrider hosted the annual John Kelly awards. Cora Sanchez who co-founded the Oahu Surfrider chapter with Peter Cole was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award. Kona Brewing Company won most environment friendly Hawai‘i company and Kyle Thiermann won the pro surfer award for his five-part video series which encourages good habits for a green environment. Surfrider also hosted a big beach cleanup with the support of San Lorenzo, Airwalk and professional surfer Anatasia Ashley. Mauli Ola foundation also held a benefit at Haleiwa during the Triple Crown. It is nice to have a break in all the action up this side, but the Haleiwa International is still on. It is hard to get a hold of the schedule this year so I am not sure when the next contests are on. I heard the Volcom Pro starts at Pipe near the end of January, which will then be followed by the Bodyboarding Pro and the Women's Pipe contest, all within about ten day increments. I guess we better surf it up now. Hope it gets good.

Merry Christmas!!

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Lunarline Pipemasters 2011

December 10th, 2011
By Lane



Been a crazy week. It seems there are less pros this year, but a lot more kids and fans than ever before. We got a smaller NW swell on Tues-Wednesday setting up the beach for the Pipemasters.Upon sunrise of the first day of the waiting period, we saw one of the biggest bombs of the whole swell and the contest was on. It surged off and on in the 8-12 range for the first 2 days and was pretty wild at times. There is still a bit of a sanbar at Ehukai which runs into the left causing some waves to close out. The first two days of the Pipemasters were by far the best waves all year, but hopefully there is still better swells on the way.I am standing here watching the waves under an unreal lunar eclipse which was super bright and beautiful earlier. So far, the waves seem on the small side, but we will have to see what happens when the sun comes. We are all hoping for the quickest run Pipemasters in history. The event was super efficient and well run this year.It is nice to see the contest directors consideration of the residents. The crowds have been almost Eddie like. I used to come early and most the spectators would not show up until an hour or so into the event. I have been on the beach for an hour already and there are tents, people sleeping on the beach and the parking is filling out already. It is such a new era of surfing. The newness is good in some was, but sad in others. Looks good enough to run. Hope they go! Good Luck John John and Alex (Mom John)!

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Last leg of contest in best swell of the Year?

December 4th, 2011
By Lane



ipemastersWell two big swells graced the Northshore, for the Sunset waiting period, unfortunately they were onshore throughout the majority of the swell; the first one hit early November 27 and the most recent swell came on December 1st. Neither swells were very good at Pipe because of the wind and the northerly angle, but it looks like that might change this week just in time for the Pipe masters. It is pretty painstaking the first big clean west will be taken over with the contest, but, at least it will finish fast and we will have long break between contests until after Christmas. It might be the perfect conditions for Pipe local John John Flourence to excel in his chance to win the Triple Crown. Contest directors are on top of things as they set up the stands for Pipe two days ago and it was complete by this morning. So far the sign says IPE, so maybe not pau yet, or maybe it might be more fitting to just add a "Y", for the Yipes masters. The guys have been out practicing already even this morning in one foot surf. Whatever happens, it should be an exciting week of surf!

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